This would probably be a better question for someone with a background in brake design or some type of lab environment to test the fluids on their own, when combined with a brake system on a bike you have a lot of other variables that could impact the result. Also noteworthy is some brands seem to void warranties if you don't use their brand of mineral oil. As many of you already know, manufacturers of hydraulic bike brakes are divided into ones that use proprietary mineral oil (Shimano, Magura, Tektro/TRP.) or DOT (glycol based fluid) - and that would be SRAM - for their system. The main difference is we know what is in DOT and we know it's dangerous, mineral oil brake systems use proprietary fluids with additives and don't publish what is in them, so we have no idea how safe they actually are or what is in it. You can use any lower weight fork oil, with matched viscosity, as these are not complex oils. If you look at the labels, even generic motor oils will say mineral oil as the main ingredient. All recommendations apply to both materials, there is a safety data sheet for Shimano mineral oil fluid and all the precautions are the same you'd use with DOT. Mineral oil just means it is a petroleum derived product and is really a catch-all phrase for almost all non synthetic oils. I was mainly pointing out that DOT isn't that difficult to work with: clean your work area, don't ingest it, wear gloves, etc. There may also be differences in how they handle cold temperatures, my understanding is that DOT retains its viscosity better than mineral oil does, but whether this feels different likely comes down to how the brake system is designed. If you find large amounts of water or moisture getting into your brake system, I'd expect there is probably a bigger problem somewhere. I've never found water in my mineral oil brakes, though, and I've gone years (I don't recommend this) without bleeding my DOT brakes and never felt any degradation of performance. There are also differences in the way they handle moisture, if I understand right, DOT fluid will absorb water while mineral oil will repel it, which could result in straight up water sitting at the lowest point in the system. If it makes you feel better you can purchase some red food. Mind you the Shimano brake fluid is pink/red, and the mineral oil I purchased is clear. Well, I went to my local PWT store (you choose: Target, Wal-Mart, Kmart, Walgreens.) and picked up a 16oz. I would think the design of the brake is probably more important than the fluid it uses. Shimano charges something like 25 for a 16oz bottle. I love the modulation, and the metallic pads lock up quite easy when needed, even when the trails are steep and loose like Crestline CA.īrake fluid boiling point comparison chart (Wet boiling point at 3.7% water absorbtion)Ĭlick to expand.I'm not sure, I can say that every mineral oil based brake I've had has faded badly for me, but I've had DOT brakes fade badly too. Personally I am quite happy with my Code R setup, outside of 1 simple rebuild due to a sticky lever, which was quite easy. I would change before every event for track days and every 3-4 for autox) Due to the nature of Glycol fluid, the water does not separate, it remains evenly dispursed through the fluid, which helps keep the chances of a section of water (say in a mineral oil line) from boiling and creating a compressible gas, thus keeping boiling point quite high (used to race cars and go-karts, fresh fluid was a must as the brakes get MUCH hotter for longer. Our systems are relatively sealed but happens through fittings and even the hoses themselves, hence should be changed at least every 1-2 years. SECTION 1: Identification of the substance/mixture and of the company/undertaking 1.1. So has anybody done something similar to this or what do you think? I mean with brakes not on your salad.Click to expand.Yes Dot 5 is the only DOT fluid that DOES NOT absorb water, meaning they are hydroscopic 3, 4, 5.1 do. Their Bionol brake fluid is a vegtable oil and you could probably put it on your salad. Trickstuff stated that there brake fluid is not petroleum based. So after seeing that Trickstuff has Bionol brake fluid with a boil point of 420 C and they state that it is compatible with Shimano and Magura oil I am considering purchasing parts to make up Shigura brakes with Trickstuff Bionol brake fluid. Juice Lubes also stated that of the many customers that use their oil there have been no complaints. It was also stated that they didn't sanction the use of any other oil in their brakes! The writer also stated that Juice Lubes had tried their oil in all brands and found no problems. The writer stated that someone from Shimano stated that if you used Magura oil in their brakes it would destroy them. I am also interested in compatibility between brands. I was looking up non DOT brake fluid used in hydraulic disk brakes for bicycles and was interested in the boil point for several different brands.
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